Arnoud Quanjer Wildlife Photography

Sossusvlei, Namibia's famous highlight in the heart of the Namib Desert, is a huge clay pan, enclosed by giant sand dunes. Some of the spectacular hills of sand are, at a height of 300 metres, the highest in the world. Only after a heavy rainfall, which is a rare event in this area, does the vlei fill with water. As the clay layers hardly allow any water infiltration, a turquoise lake will remain for quite some time. The dunes of the Namib desert have developed over a period of many millions of years. It is thought that the vast quantities of sand were deposited into the Alantic Ocean by the Orange river. This material was subsequently moved northwards by the Benguela current to be dumped back onto the land by the surf.

Sesriem campsite

Make sure that you get to the dunes early as it will get very hot during the daytime. To get to the dunes at the earliest time possible you should camp at Sesriem campsite. You can only camp there, there are not huts or chalets available and you should bring your own food. If you stay at Sesriem then you can leave for Sossusvlei one hour before sunrise and you can return one hour after sunset. The dunes are at their most beautiful during sunrise and sunset. Make sure you leave Sesriem as early as possible as it's a 60km drive to Sossusvlei from Sesriem campsite. If you leave early you can make it to Sossusvlei in time for the sunrise. The road from Sesriem to Sossusvlei is fully tarred except for the last 5km. The last stretch of 'road' is only accesible by 4x4. If you don't have your own 4x4 then you can either hitch a ride on a 4x4 or use the local 4x4 'taxis'. These taxis drive from the 2x4 parking space to Sossusvlei and back the whole day. You can also walk the last 5km's but make sure you're fit and have enough water with you if you're going to walk.

Please be aware that prices for staying at Sesriem campsites has increased sharply from November 2007. Up till this time you'd pay N$100 per campsite and N$50 per person. From November 2007 the price for a campsite has increased to N$300 per campsite and N$150 per person. This constitutes a price increase of 300%. The reason for the dramatic price increase is refurbishment of Sesriem campsite. According to Namibia Wildlife Resorts the refurbishment would include the development of a new reception, new entrance gates, the relocation of the petrol station and shop, a new thatched restaurant / bar complex, new swimming pool, new ablution facilities, re-development of the campsites and overall landscaping. It was anticipated that this process would take approximately five months from May until September 2007.

I was in Sesriem in October 2007 and it is my conclusion that very little has been done to improve the Sesriem. The campsites are the same as they've always been, the ablutions were still horrible, the pool and bar have not changed and the shop, reception and petrol station are as they were in 2003. The only thing that has been done is that more camp sites have been created and a new ablutions block for these camp sites was being built. In my opinion Sesriem was in the same dismal state as it was back in 2003 and 2006 when I stayed there. In my opinion the minor changes made to Sesriem do not warrant the ludicrous price increase. In the Sesriem camp site - General Information article you can find images of the 'refurbished' Sesriem camp site.

Dead Vlei

Just beyond Sossusvlei, there is another vlei called Dead Vlei. To get to this vlei you have to walk through the dunes for just over a kilometer, but it is worth the walk. If you think Sossusvlei is beautiful then you'll be blown away by Dead Vlei. For photographt this vlei is the #1 spot in the Sossusvlei area. Dead Vlei is called Dead Vlei because of all the dead Camelthorn trees in the vlei.

As you leave Dead Vlei you forgive the guide for dragging you out of bed so early. By the time you begin the climb back up the dune to Sossusvlei, the sun will be relatively high in the sky and the going will be much tougher than it was just before sunrise. Take a look at the latecomers who have yet to do their climbing. It’s quite acceptable to feel gleeful and grin knowingly at them. After all, they didn’t get out of bed as early as you did. 

Photography

Make sure you have enough film stock or flash memory for your digital. I shot over 600 pictures at Sossusvlei in three sessison (two morning and one afternoon session). As I shoot digital in RAW mode that was 5GB worth of pictures. Also make sure that your camera is well protected against sand as you climb. The sand is very finely grained and will get to places in your camera where you don't want sand to go (trust me, been there done that :( )